To combine a blast from the past with a classic Greek coffee experience, try Café = Bar in Stoa Naftemporiki. This arcade (stoa in Greek), with its entrance on Dragatsaniou Street and exit on Agion Theodoron Square, is one of several arcades close to Panepistimio metro station.

Nikos—the third proprietor of the café since its construction in 1952—recalls a bygone age when the arcade had five concierges and shops and offices occupying all floors. Back then, the café was sometimes used as a location for Greek movies and advertisements. Today, only two of the ground floor shops remain active, along with Nikos’ charming café, which is as radically simple as the name suggests. (Case in point: don’t try to find it on Facebook or Instagram.)

Tristrato means ‘three streets’: this arcade has three exits. Locals usually come here for electronic appliances, but the basement holds an unexpected surprise: remnants of the ancient city walls of Athens. (The same walls are visible a few blocks away, on Kotzia Square, partially hidden beneath an apartment block.)

Entering from Dragatsaniou Street, you will encounter a shop window with handmade wooden toys and musical instruments, alongside some seemingly random objects. This tiny store showcases owner Michalis Gigogidis’ diverse interests, which range from anthroposophy to biodynamic farming. He often engages passers-by who are up for a chat about Steiner schools and parenting, his favourite topics of conversation. Sometimes this passion extends to educational seminars and spontaneous gatherings in this intriguing arcade.

In an arcade mainly populated by photocopy shops, En Athinais 1928 barber shop is a flamboyant hair mecca for hipsters of all hirsute persuasions. It actually opened in 2011, right across from the former Athens Stock Exchange. But the décor recalls New York barbers from the prohibition era. 

Owner Billy deliberately chose an underground spot for his vintage barber shop. Today, customers from all over the world seek Billy out through word of mouth in this rather nondescript arcade, where he’s the star of the show. He has hand-picked every last detail, from the hair products to the retro furniture. When the red bike is outside, the barber shop is open. 

Stoa Michael and Lemou connects Omirou and Stadiou Streets. It used to house all kinds of businesses, from travel agencies and photography stores to vinyl and tobacco purveyors. Strangest of all, the second and third floors once housed a police station. 

From Stadiou Street, head for the statue of Greek War of Independence hero Theodoros Kolokotronis. You’ll find him pointing towards Tarassouleas & Co, a shop billing itself as ‘a small paradise for the collector.’ For thirty years, this family-run enterprise has archived collections of stamps, coins, banknotes, Olympic memorabilia, and postcards. You can browse a certain time period, a geographical region, or a very specific interest.