I’m standing on the edge of a rocky outcrop, protruding out into the clear waters of Vouliagmeni Bay on the Athens Riviera. It’s early March, but the sun is shining brightly, illuminating the Lemos peninsula opposite. It lulls me into a false sense of confidence. At this time of year, the water is actually at its coldest.
Without giving myself enough time to talk myself out of the endeavour, I bend my legs, raise my arms and arc forward into graceful pencil dive. As I hit the icy water, this composure evaporates—I instinctively tuck my arms and legs into my body—floundering in the water in shock—as all the air is sucked out of my lungs. It takes a good few seconds because I return to my senses, lift my head up above the water and can manage any semblance of a proper stroke.
As the shock slowly ebbs away, I start to relax. The water is 10° C (a good 26 degrees below the normal body temperature of 36° C), so as I break into a regular breast stroke and my muscles begin to warm up, the sensation of the water on my bare skin is still one of discomfort. Although, strangely, it feels like a light burn, rather than a cold one.
Experience the rush of winter swimming on the Athens Riviera.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
Beach tennis in winter. You'll have the court all to yourself.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
I’ve come to Vouliagmeni to meet the members of the Poseidon Winter Swimmers Club. Housed in an old German coastal fortification from 1942, the club has been open every day throughout the winter (except religious days) since 1982 and boasts a stable 160 members. Their ages range from 20 to 92.
But why do the members chose to put themselves through this pain? “The sea is life,” explains Manolis, when I return to the clubhouse. Manolis is the joint oldest regular at the club—alongside two other 92-year-olds. He comes at least twice a week throughout the winter—only staying out of the water when he’s ill or his wife tells him: ‘No’.
Manolis and the club’s president, Giorgos Argirakis, explain that winter swimming has all manner of benefits for physical and mental well-being. It’s great for a healthy heart, boosts circulation, keeps joints flexible and provides a much-needed winter dose of vitamin D. Manolis is a great advert for its supposed life-prolonging benefits, too. Looking at his lively face, bright eyes and lightly-olive skin, you wouldn’t guess he was much past 65.
Of course, I’m told I’ve done it all wrong. Apparently, you should acclimatise to the cold slowly, taking your time on the beach and walking gently into the water, letting your body’s temperature fall gradually, rather than diving in head first. Starting in September—rather than now, the coldest period of the year—is also advised, so your body adapts to the slowly cooling water as winter sets in.
This is what winter looks like on the Athens Riviera.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
The sea is life to members of the Poseidon Winter Swimmers Club.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
Still, once I’ve dried myself, I quickly start to warm up. I can already feel the blood rushing to my skin and there’s a feeling of a deep-body warmth; much like you get after an intense yoga session. In fact, the warm glow I feel inside will stay with me for the rest of the day.
Poseidon’s members are just a small cross-section section of the hundreds—perhaps thousands—who regularly take to the water throughout winter, all along the Athenian Riviera. While elsewhere in Europe, winter swimming means wetsuits or plunging into frozen lakes for just a few seconds at a time, the climate in Athens means temperatures permit (relatively) pleasurable swimming all year round.
Poseidon’s location makes it a desirable spot because, nestled inside a natural, cliff-lined bay, it offers protection from the wind and keeps the water warmer than the open sea. The water here is usually between 9-12° C during the winter months. A year’s membership is €35 and that also gets you access to an onsite doctor, dermatologist and chiropractor. All you need to do is visit a cardiologist for a heart stress test beforehand and you’re good to hit the water.
Of course, if you’re in town for only a short time and don’t want the fuss of joining up, you can always take the plunge anywhere along the coastline (although taking a swimming buddy along with you when cold swimming is always smart practice).
Poseidon Winter Swimmers Club has members aged from 20 to 92.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
A locker room Poseidon Winter Swimmers' style.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
Here are some of Athens’ prime winter swimming spots
Vouliagmeni Lake
If you feel like putting in a few lengths, but don’t fancy the bracing temperatures, then Vouliagmeni Lake is for you. Warmed by natural thermal springs, the lowest recorded water temperature here is 18° C (although it usually ranges between 21-24° C). So it’s a perfect option for the faint-hearted. The lake is constantly refreshed by both the sea and underground natural currents that sweep through Mount Ymittos. As well as warming the water, this unique geological feature imbues it with positive health properties.
Stolidi, Alimos
Much closer to the city centre, Stolidi is a long, sandy beach, partially enclosed by trees. The beach is cleanest in the winter months, when you’ll often have it all to yourself. The left side of the beach is the domain of raketes (or beach tennis) fans, while the right is left for the swimmers. There are free showers and changing rooms and the option of picking up a snack from the beach bar if you get peckish after your dip. You can find the beach below the Kalamaki tram stop.
Asteras, Glyfada
Situated between Alimos and Vouliagmeni, the glam suburb of Glyfada has a number of beaches that are relatively lively throughout the winter months. The advantage of Asteras, however, is that the sand is maintained year-round by the staff of Balux Café, which makes it a more family-friendly option. Jump off at the Asteria bus stop or Kolymbitirio tram stop.