Photo: Orestis Seferoglou

Church of Panagia Kapnikarea

Photo: Orestis Seferoglou

This is one of the oldest churches in Athens, and it sits right in the middle of Ermou Street.

When was it built

Probably 1052.

What's the story

Evidence suggests the church may have been part of a monastic compound built over an ancient temple dedicated to a female deity, possibly Athena.

Why it's important

Because of its unusual architecture—there’s a smaller church attached—that hosts Arabic calligraphic inscriptions and its pole position in the middle of Ermou, the city’s busiest commercial street.

Must-see

The frescoes by the Greek painter Fotis Kontoglou and his students, which were commissioned in the 1940s to replace the originals that were destroyed.

Fun fact

This resilient little church survived being firebombed by the Turks in 1689, and several attempts by urban planners to demolish it in the 19th century.

Photo: Orestis Seferoglou

Eat & Drink

Eat & Drink

Eat & Drink

Eat & Drink

Church of Panagia Kapnikarea

This is one of the oldest churches in Athens, and it sits right in the middle of Ermou Street.