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Staying in a bed and breakfast in Southern Crete a few years back, I asked the owner whether they had any tea for breakfast. “Are you feeling poorly?” he asked me, with a worried expression. Greece might produce superb—even medicinal—herbal teas, but it is not a nation of tea-drinkers. Greeks are all about coffee, something which becomes obvious just by walking the streets of Athens: people linger over a single cup of coffee for hours, and every other hole-in-the-wall now sells coffee to go. Here’s what you need to know to pick the brew that appeals to you.
Greek Coffee, the artist formerly known as Turkish Coffee
Greek coffee, that sludgy little shot of caffeine, is drunk in slightly different versions around the Middle East and Balkans. In most of these countries, it’s known as Turkish coffee. In fact, this is what it was called in Greece too, until Turkey invaded Cyprus in 1974, rekindling a surge of nationalism—and the birth of Greek coffee (ellinikos kafes).
The process of brewing a Greek coffee is simple: coffee beans (usually of the Arabica variety) are roasted and then ground to an almost dusty consistency. The coffee powder, water and (optional) sugar are then mixed over a low fire in a small copper pot, called a briki. When the mixture starts rising, but before it starts bubbling or overflowing, the briki is taken off the heat. The thick, aromatic liquid is then served in a demitasse. The size and colour might resemble an espresso, but this is where the similarities end. Greek coffee is meant to be sipped leisurely, not downed in one gulp, as there is a thick gunk of residue at the bottom.
The briki is the most important tool in making Greek coffee.
Photo: Eleni Veziri
Mokka is one of the best places in Athens to get a Greek coffee.
Photo: Eleni Veziri
The best place in Athens to see how traditional Greek coffee is made is at Mokka on Athinas Street, right next to the Varvakios food market. Here, the briki is brewed on a bed of hot sand called hovoli, and served with a tiny piece of loukoumi (Turkish delight) on the side. Greek coffee can be served sketos (black), metrios (medium sugar) or glykos (sweet). My advice: even if you like your coffee black, ask for a little sugar in it (me oligi), as the flavour is slightly bitter.
The frappé: a frothy revolution
In the 1960s and 70s, a new coffee trend took Greece by storm. Created by accident at the 1957 World Expo in Thessaloniki, frappé is basically iced instant coffee. Nescafé, sugar and a little water are blended together until the mixture becomes frothy, then ice, more water and milk are added to taste. It’s very easy and cheap to make, but unless you are camping or on the road, this instant coffee beverage has, unsurprisingly, gone out of fashion—at least among the young and hip.
Don't leave Athens without trying a freddo coffee.
Photo: Eleni Veziri
Freddo: The New Frappé
In its place, Greeks have created two new brews to satisfy their fierce desire for iced coffee: freddo espresso and freddo cappuccino. The former consists of one or two shots of espresso, shaken in a mixer and served over ice. Freddo cappuccino is the same, but with a thick layer of cold, frothy milk on top. (You can tell the difference between a frappé and a freddo: one has brown froth, the other white.) A whole coffee culture has evolved around these two Greek inventions. The so-called ‘third wave coffee’ has also made it to Greece, producing some excellent specialty coffee haunts. Arm yourself with our cheat sheet to find your perfect cup of coffee while in Athens.
Where to get your caffeine fix in Athens
Let’s begin with a classic. Da Capo in Kolonaki has been the place of choice for politicians and businessmen for years. Adorned in green marble and serving a rich, thick freddo cappuccino and some of the best brioche sandwiches around, Da Capo is strategically placed in the heart of busy Kolonaki Square for unashamed people watching. Be aware that Da Capo is self-service only, even if you are sitting at a table.
Da Capo is a Kolonaki-based café classic.
Photo: Orestis Seferoglou
Everyone in this city is on the hunt for the perfect pour.
Courtesy: Mr Beans Coffee House
Coffee Brewers on Emmanouil Benaki Street in Exarchia, is a tiny, high-ceilinged corner spot, with neo-Athenian industrial décor. This is one of the friendliest places to get your caffeine fix. As the name implies, they roast their own coffee with great success. Don’t forget to try their cakes—the carrot cake is my favourite.
In Pangrati, Athens' Airbnb mecca, o Kokkos (Greek for ‘the bean’) is an unpretentious little place with some fantastic specialty blends. Owned and run by brother and sister duo, Spyros and Vasia, it draws a young, happy-go-lucky crowd. Their bottles of cold brew fly out of the store in the summer.
Everyone enjoys their time at O Kokkos.
Photo: Eleni Veziri