How so many visitors to Athens manage to miss out on romantic Anafiotika—even though it’s just below the Parthenon—is a complete mystery. A serene Cycladic village smack in the city centre, Anafiotika was built in the mid-19th century by stonemasons from the island of Anafi, summoned by King Otto I to build his palace (today’s Parliament building). By night, the islanders knocked up these humble, whitewashed dwellings for their own families. Once illegal, these flower-framed cottages are now an essential element of Athens’ architectural heritage. A perfect escape for those who don’t have time to hit the Greek islands, Anafiotika is Insta-heaven. Getting lost in the meandering, nameless lanes is half the joy.

There are music venues and then there’s the Odeon of Herod Atticus (or rather, the Herodion, as every Athenian calls it). Some pretty stellar names have played at this epic 2,000-year-old arena on the southern slopes of the Acropolis. Frank Sinatra, Elton John, Andrea Bocelli, Liza Minnelli, and, of course, Maria Callas. Put them all together and they still can’t outshine the star quality of the Herodion. From May to October, it’s the main open-air venue for the Athens Festival, an international bonanza of arts and culture. On stage, global icons like Sting gaze up at the moon rising over the glowing Parthenon, as if to say: “Holy cow”.  And so will you.

For Athenians, it wouldn’t be summer without spending a balmy evening at one of the city’s open-air cinemas. A bougainvillea-draped screen. The chirp of cicadas. Dodgy acoustics. The odd cat strolling in front of the picture. Whether the latest Hollywood blockbuster or an old silver screen favourite, the movies are usually shown in their original language with Greek subtitles. Two downtown classics are Cine Thision and Ciné Paris, which both have mesmerising Parthenon views. Summer cinemas in Athens are usually open from May until late September, depending on the weather. 

You might want to take your multi-vitamins—and a siesta—before this one. When Greeks go out to the bouzoukia, the fun rarely kicks off before 1 am. These live Greek music clubs are modern-day temples of Dionysian revelry. You’re in for an epic (and expensive) bacchanal of table-top dancing and flying rose petals. Greeks buy trays full of flowers to fling at their favourite performers—much as over-excited fans once threw their knickers at The Beatles. No self-respecting Greek goes home before dawn—and certainly not before making a pit-stop at an all-night souvlaki joint or a 24-hour restaurant for a bowl of their favourite hangover remedy, patsas (tripe soup, an authentic experience some might prefer to skip).

Wandering the streets of Athens, you’re likely to spot locals making the sign of the cross—a telltale sign that there’s a church nearby. They may not be obvious at first glance, but the magical Byzantine churches of Athens are peppered among the city’s apartments and squares. Athenians throng to church in the week before Easter on the Assumption of the Virgin Mary on August 15. But step inside a Byzantine chapel any time of day or year and you’re transported to medieval Athens. Light a candle, say a prayer or make a wish, and watch the flames flicker over the frescoed dome and gold-tinged icons. You might stumble upon a church service, christening or wedding in progress. Don’t hesitate to join in. The musky, meditative world of Greek Orthodoxy is open to everyone.