It may not seem like it from the sea of snowy concrete that greets you as you come into land at Athens airport, but this is a city that will amply reward those who choose to explore it on foot.
Like Greece as a whole, Athens and its wider area manages to cram an impressive diversity into a relatively small area. Ancient sites stand like islands of permanence in an ever-evolving cityscape while waterfront promenades are cooled by the sea breeze. Whether you're looking to just stretch your legs while taking in some key sights or want to give your kids the chance to burn off some steam, here are walking routes to cover all bases.
Lycabettus Hill
Best for: Anyone interested in getting a sense of the modern city away from the ancient sites.
The Route: To the northeast of the Acropolis lies Lycabettus Hill, the tallest point in central Athens. A path winds (rather steeply) up the hill through pine, cypress and eucalyptus trees. If you don't fancy an uphill trek in the heat, a funicular train runs up there every half hour from Aristippou Street in the neighbourhood of Kolonaki. It's a great option for those with kids in tow; they'll get a kick out of the train. You can then walk down the path.
Why: At the top of the hill there is an interesting church built into a cave, an upscale restaurant and a café, but the primary reason to head up here is for the best view in downtown Athens.
How long: 1-2 hours.
Look out for: The City of Athens Lycabettus Theatre hosts concerts and film screenings in the summer months. If you get the chance to see a show up here, don't pass it up!
Top tip: On your way back down, aim to end up in Dexameni Square. It has lovely cafés and restaurants and a delightful open-air cinema.
How to get there: The nearest metro station to the funicular and the path is Evangelismos.
Photo: Christos Pastalidis
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre
Best for: Families with kids of all ages. The SNFCC is also the city's most disabled-friendly place to grab some fresh air.
The Route: A few minutes south of the city-centre, near the Athens waterfront, the SNFCC is a relatively recent addition to the Athenian landscape but one that swiftly became a favourite day out destination. With good reason. Its centrepiece is an inspiring Renzo Piano-designed complex of buildings, home to the Greek National Opera and the National Library. But what makes this a true walker's delight are the well-manicured 50 acre grounds. There’s a 400m long canal, a Dancing Fountain, exercise and play areas, cooling water jets to play in and groomed gardens with indigenous plants. The latter merges with the buildings, becoming part of the roof. Walking up the slope will take you to the “Lighthouse”—a viewing platform with a dramatic city and sea panorama.
Why: When the city begins to stifle, the sea views and open horizons are, literally, a breath of fresh air. It's also an ideal stop if you have time to kill before heading to nearby Piraeus to catch a boat.
How long: A leisurely stroll around the main sights will take about 1-1.5 hours.
Look out for: The Dancing Fountains “perform” water shows set to music by great composers every half hour.
Top tip: The SNFCC is also home to Delta, the country’s only 2-Michelin Star Restaurant.
How to get there: Hop on the free shuttle bus that leaves from Syntagma Square, with a stopover at the Syngrou-Fix Metro station, courtesy of the SNFCC. Alternatively it’s about a 10-minute taxi ride from Syntagma Square.
Marina Flisvou and the Athens Riviera
Best for: Boat and beach lovers, families, couples.
The Route: About 1 km from the SNFCC (see above) is Flisvos Marina, marking the start of an attractive and walkable strip of the Athens seafront, close to the city-centre. Next to the marina is a tidy park and children's playground, followed by a 4.5 km stretch of seaside promenade. This stretch features another large marina and a number of beaches small and large (some undeveloped, others with umbrellas, bars and restaurants). You can continue along on foot easily at your leisure until you come to the former airport, where a large-scale development is underway, making walking by the sea presently more difficult.
Why: In the summer, this is a very enjoyable route for a stroll with all the classic seaside amusements: ogling multimillion-euro yachts, eating ice cream by the water, watching the sunset, chatting with fishermen, or just gazing out at the deep blue thinking deep thoughts. If you fancy a dip, follow the locals and dive in!
How long: Walking from Flisvos to the old airport at a steady pace will take about an hour, but in practice you'll dawdle a lot more. Note that all along this route you will be walking alongside the tram line, so you can always hop on for the return trip.
Look out for: Next to Marina Flisvos is a popular open-air cinema if you want to cap off your walk with a post—sunset movie under the stars.
Top tip: The beaches here are, unsurprisingly, very popular with local residents and get jammed on the weekends (as does the waterfront in general). Visiting on a weekday is generally more pleasant.
How to get there: Flisvos Marina can be reached by tram or bus, or by a short taxi ride from the city-centre in about 10-15 minutes.
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
The green oasis next to the Greek Parliament.
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
The National Garden
Best for: Families with energetic kids and lovebirds.
The Route: Where's the best place to walk with kids? It's actually right next to busy Syntagma Square in the National Garden. This 38 hectare park, once the Royal Garden, is a wonderful downtown oasis with a number of diversions to delight kids of all ages.
Why: With tall trees (of a wide range of species) shading much of the park throughout the day and multiple ponds and streams, the air temperature is noticeably cooler than outside the gates. Kids can spot the fish and frogs in the ponds and there's a central lake with geese and ducks, along with a small zoo with goats and rabbits. They'll also enjoy the well-maintained playground, and the grassy open spaces for picnics and games.
How long: Even the most easily-bored child can lose several hours here.
Look out for: A permanent population of bright green parakeets lives in the park – listen for their loud screeching and try to spy them in the treetops.
Top tip: During the summer months, an outdoor café makes a great pitstop for coffee or even breakfast or lunch.
How to get there: If you're standing facing parliament, just head to your right and enter the gate under the large Washingtonian palms.