In Thomas and Kalliopi’s historic neighbourhood of Keramikos lies one of the least visited archaeological treasures of Athens, we’re told. The Ancient Necropolis of Keramikos, built atop the Eridanos River (which once flowed through the area until the Romans covered it up). This below-radar site spans 11-acres and is filled with monumental graves, tombstones and dramatic marble statues from the 4th to 5th century BC (including a rather menacing bull!).

Most visitors miss this extraordinary spot. Even fewer encounter its fascinating dark history, apparently.
 

From ancient souls to departed modern Greek heroes, we venture to another remarkable off-grid burial ground. This one is the First Cemetery of Athens and you’ll find it near the Panathenaic Stadium in Pangrati. It’s the final resting place, we learn, for a poetic pantheon of the great and good of Greece. Built in 1837, shortly after the founding of the modern Greek state, there’s everyone from eminent politicians, artists and actors, to prominent Philhellenes and beloved figures of the Greek Revolution interred at this prestigious listed space.

We flip through a series of beautiful photographs. Magnificent marble tombs graced with exquisite sculptures; whimsical white chapels; all framed by towering pines and cypresses. It feels like half-park and half open-air museum. Or a free outdoor sculpture gallery, if you like.
 

“We have made it our mission to track down and photograph all the best street art in Athens,” says Kalliopi, as we arrive at what is clearly their favourite part of the tour.
“Do you recognise anything about this mural? Something about the eyes, perhaps?” she asks. On our screens is an arresting black and white street art canvas, from the urban neighbourhood of Gazi.
“They’re the eyes of Mona Lisa?” guesses Ellen. Correctly, it turns out.
Thomas elaborates: “In Mona Lisa’s left eye, you can see a protestor. In her right, there is a policeman holding a riot shield. So it’s a comment that if the real Mona Lisa was watching over the streets of the modern city of Athens, this is what she would see.”

The acrylic paint mural was created in 2018, by Athens’ most internationally famous street artist INO, and forms part of his extended homage to Leonardo da Vinci. The collective work stretches for nearly one hundred metres across the old Bus Depot building in Pireos Street. Like Banksy, INO’s identity is a closely-guarded secret.

While hunting for secret street art in an abandoned sanatorium, built up on Mount Parnitha in 1912, Thomas and Kalliopi stumbled across a rare cultural attraction that’s haunting in every sense of the word.

“Mount Parnitha is a very nice place about 50km out of Athens where Athenians go to escape to nature; go biking or hiking or see the many deer up there,” says Thomas.
“But there’s also an infamous old sanatorium that once treated tuberculosis patients until penicillin was discovered. Even Yiannis Ritsos, the most famous Greek poet, was hospitalised there.”

Kalliopi continues: “There have been many local legends over the years about ghosts and supernatural occurrences; many believe the site is haunted.”