We move on to Plaka and through charming Anafiotika, under the Acropolis, where we talk street art (ancient and modern). We hear the history behind Anafiotika’s island alleyways—so narrow and winding that the houses are numberless. 
We emerge into newly-popular Koukaki, with its wealth of foodie hotspots. Our lunch is served at a deli-diner. It’s designed around the concept of a Greek convenience store in the days before supermarkets, “where you could enjoy a bite and a gossip with the patron”. The patrons here are Yannis and Stavros. Their well-stocked shelves reflect the products that inspired them while travelling around Greece during their previous careers as lawyers. On cue, Yannis appears and looks every bit in the mood for a gossip.

There follows a tasting menu of extra-virgin olive oils. We discuss optimum acidity, polyphenols and blood pressure. “Drizzle it, pour it, gargle with it,” Yannis says, “just don’t cook with it.” Out comes an assortment of cheese (made with cow, sheep, and goat’s milk) followed by a tasty array of small dishes from various regions of Greece. There’s split pea puree (fava), courgette fritters, stuffed vine leaves, aubergine dip, smoked ham, and fried pork in wine and honey sauce. All washed down with white wine and tsipouro (local firewater). The final touch is a selection of strained yoghurts with candied orange and rose petals. Good job there was plenty of time to digest. And talk. 
Top tip: As you head down Agiou Dimitriou street, in Psirri, duck into a little courtyard. You’ll find a coffee shop straight out of 1950s Athens.